Developing Alpine Skills in the UK
Whilst we may not be sure where and when we will be able to get into the mountains at the moment, we continue to build a collection of Alpine Skills resources.
In this article we look at how to develop and consolidate the skills required on lots of Alpine routes whilst in the UK (or smaller hills elsewhere).
Scrambling - Movement and Rope Work
Efficiency is the name of the game in Alpinism and so practicing getting your rope and movement systems really slick with your partner before you go out on your trip is always time well spent. Speed versus security is the balance we need to develop.
If you don’t have the skill set for roped scrambling consider hiring a Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor through the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (in the UK) or a IFMGA Mountain Guide. These instructors will be able to safely introduce you to the ropework and gear required for roped scrambling.
Experiment with the gear you take - a scrambling rack is lighter than a climbing rack and typically consists of extendable quickdraws, a variety of slings, screwgates, 3 cams, 5-6 nuts (every other size usually - you can decide on odds or evens!!) and your favourite hex (!). Consider how this relates to an alpine rack - cams are quicker to place than nuts BUT not as not in an icy crack..
Bruce Goodlad in his Alpine Mountaineering bible lays out suggestions for what you would want for each mountaineering grade.
By choosing graded scrambles (or very easy rock climbs depending on what you feel confident on) you can practice managing the rope and each other on stances. For example, practicing the transition from moving together on easier ground (placing occasional pieces of gear and both climbing at the same time, perhaps using a capture device) to having to ‘pitch’ a short section of harder ground, before then moving together once more. As well as developing your rope skills you are also ‘getting your eye in’ to what rock sections look like and what you feel happy climbing in what style. You can also practice these skills in winter on snowy ridge lines - throw in an axe and some crampons and see how that changes things! Practice moving over rocky ground in your crampons and managing the rope with cold gloved hands..
Once you feel you’ve got the ropework and movement dialled with your partner it’s time to step up the route and day length. This will help with developing fitness and endurance, but also help get in the mindset of a big day out and how best to fuel yourself and your partner. If you can get up to Scotland there are some fantastic long ridge scrambles/climbs such as on Ben Nevis or the Isle of Skye which are perfect for this. However, if you can’t make the journey north too regularly, there are ways of increasing amount of rock covered in Snowdonia or the Lake District - enchainments. This basically means linking up as many routes as you like in a geographical area. There will be some walking between routes but this is good for practicing faff minimisation! Try doing these in your mountain boots as well as approach shoes; What size foothold can you stand on? Can you smear? How nimble do you feel?!
The Ogwen Valley in Snowdonia is great for this as there are a huge number of routes of varying difficulties in a small area. This gives the potential for many up, downs and arounds! The scrambling guide books below give suggestions of enchainments and there is a UKC article for climbing route enchainments. Or you can make up your own looking at a guidebook and a map.
For example - Idwal Staircase, Cneifion Arete, down true Gribin to base of Glyder Fach main cliff, Dolmen Ridge, down Bristly ridge, around to Heather Terrace, Pinnacle Scramble, down West Gully. PHEW!
Literary Resources
Alpine Mountaineering: A Practical Manual by Bruce Goodlad (also has a Ski Touring one)
North Wales Scrambles by Garry Smith
Snowdonia Scrambles by Steve Ashton
Scrambles in the Lake District (2 volumes) by R. Brian Evans
Scrambles and Easy Climbs in the Lake District by John Sparks + Judith Brown
Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland by Dan Bailey
Scotland’s Mountain Ridges by Dan Bailey
Scotland’s Winter Mountains with One Axe by Garry Smith
Online Resources
The BMC Essential Alpine Know-How. A collection of articles on anything you’d ever want to know! https://www.thebmc.co.uk/alpine-climbing-and-walking-skills
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/snowdonia_in_chains-435
Courses and Guiding
Jonathon Colville Memorial Trust - Alpine and Scottish courses for young people https://www.jcmt.org.uk/
Plas Y Brenin - Alpine Prep Courses and Courses based in the Alps
Glenmore Lodge - Alpine Courses
Association of Mountaineering Instructors https://www.mountain-training.org/membership/ami/find-an-instructor
British Mountain Guides https://www.bmg.org.uk/