FAQ Series: Dealing with Altitude
Altitude can have a huge effect on our bodies and our climbing in the Alps. In this article we look at the importance of acclimatisation and recognising the signs of altitude sickness and other effects of exercising at height.
In basic terms as we go higher there is less oxygen in the air for our bodies to use. This has a physiological impact on our performance and how we feel. With less oxygen being taken in each breath, your body has to work harder to get supply to your working brain and muscles. This results in a quicker breathing rate and heart rate. However, over time our bodies can modify this physiology to be used to this new normal of less oxygen - this is acclimatisation. Usually it takes 1-3 days for our bodies to be used to the lack of oxygen at a certain height. One big factor to be aware of alongside the physioloigcal changes is the effect lack of oxygen can have on the brain. Decision making and coordination can be impaired alongside increased irritability. Be aware of this within your team and ensure safe decisions are still being made.
Dr Hannah Lock, an expedition medic shares her knowledge on basic high altitude physiology in this blog post
Mount Blanc and it’s satellites
Taking time to acclimatise properly on a trip is key for success. This can be achieved by slowly building up in height over a trip. This article from UKC summarises a typical plan:
Acclimatising for the European Alps
This series of articles on UKC looks in more detail at the principles behind successful acclimatisation:
4 part series on high altitude travel
On a typical alpine trip the most important factors are looking after your hydration, nutrition and sun protection. Aim to drink 3-4 litres of water a day and ensure you are eating little and often. A lot of the time when people think they are suffering from altitude sickness it is actually nausea from exertion at altitude plus dehydration and a little sunstroke. Look after yourself and your team mates and recognise the signs.
People mostly notice the effect of altitude when sleeping in mountain huts. Another factor is the availability of clean drinking water in huts - some do not supply this and you need cash to buy bottled water. Don’t get caught out by this and ask ahead. Also take advantage of any hut tea/tisane that is being served - fill a bottle with this in the morning.
A high level traverse of the Brenta Dolomites, staying around 3000m for 3 days
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) usually occurs above 2,500m and mild symptoms include headache, swelling of hands and feet, dizziness and stomach issues. More severe cases can develop into HAPE and HACE (High Altitude Pulmonary/Cerebral Odema). The best treatment for mild cases is to descend safely and symptoms will subside. Cases of anything more than mild AMS are extremely rare in the European Alps and most people suffer from the effects of dehydration and exertion in the sun.
The UIAA has published the below information around effects of altitude for women specifically covering periods and contraception use, and is available in the article below:
BMC article - advice for women at altitude