FAQ Series: First Alpine Trip — Women's Alpine Adventure Club

You’ve read the books, you’ve watched countless YouTube videos of crevasse rescue, you’ve practiced your alpine skills in the UK (see article here) and recruited suitably psyched partners. You’re ready for your first alpine trip!

But, where to go?? What routes to focus on?? How long should the trip be??

In this blog post we consider how best to prepare for your first alpine trip and what pitfalls and traps to be aware of and avoid.

Super serious multi-pitching in Ailefroide

Preparation

Research where you want to go - looking at Guiding websites is a great place to start. Where do they base their ‘intro to alpinism’ courses?
What are the conditions like at the moment? Keep an eye on long range weather forecasts and follow local guides and check on internet forums (remember to ask yourself if you trust this information)
Fitness - general hill fitness (cardio and carrying a heavy bag) will be a great starter point. Getting used to being out for long days and sorting out your nutrition and hydration needs will give you a head start. Consider your weaknesses - do you need to build up leg strength?
Make sure all your kit fits or know where you can hire from out there
Skills - Practicing alpine skills in the UK with friends or hiring an instructor can really help get your head in the game as well as increasing your hill fitness. Practice crevasse rescue in the park or in your home. Get comfortable moving efficiently and safely on rock
Have honest discussions with your partners - do you share the same aspirations and ambitions? Do you agree on perception of risk and success? Practice skills with the partners you will be going out with, get to know each other’s habits and preferences.
Sort Insurance and Rescue - BMC and Austrian Alpine Club are popular choices. Check what you are covered for. Include Travel Insurance.
How long a trip can you do? - I find that a week means I only just get acclimatized and into it before coming home again. Remember to factor in rest days.

Location

Chamonix is a popular base for first trips but can be very busy, especially in peak holiday time. Consider alternatives such as Saas, Arolla and the Otztal.
Look at ‘Intro’ courses offered by Guiding outfits to get ideas about where to base yourself
Bruce Goodlad suggests ‘first alpine routes’ in the back of his book
Somewhere with a high proportion of easier routes F-PD+ to get your head and body into this alpinism game. Don’t assume your sport climbing grade will equate to alpine routes. What skill set do you want to focus on? What is in condition at this time of year?
Where will you stay? Campsite, Air BnB or Guesthouse? Consider where you will leave your stuff when you are up high. Some campsites offer a ‘tent only’ fee for when you are not staying there but your base camp is.
What shops are around for food supplies? Often alpine village shop prices are pretty expensive, so think about stocking up before you get there. Also, shops can close earlier than expected - don’t get caught out hungry!
How are you going to get around? Often valleys have a discounted public travel system - look into this before you go as often you can get a package with accommodation. In the Saas Valley lifts are also included in camping prices.
Don’t put your eggs in all in one basket regarding routes and location - often the best trips are when you can’t climb in one valley as planned and have to move on to somewhere else. For example, often the weather is better on the Italian side of the tunnel in Courmayeur so keep your options open in Chamonix.

Kit

Ideally practice with your own kit before you head out so you become used to it
Go out climbing and scrambling in your big boots so you are used to how the movement is different and that they definitely fit you!
Depending on what routes you are doing you will need a range of kit. Head over to our FAQ: Kit page for more ideas
Alpinism is not Scottish Winter! You will be amazed at how small the bags are of more experienced European Alpinists, and in turn expect jokes about overloaded newbies! There is a balance between ‘fast and light, cold and screwed’ and being so overloaded with a heavy bag you can’t move fast enough.
If you want to do activities like Via Ferrata you can often hire the laynards for this from climbing shops - do not be tempted to bodge your own
Hire of kit is possible, but check this before you go

Via Ferrata high above the Val Grisenche, Aosta

When you get there

Plan your food - maybe stop into a bigger supermarket to get the bulk of shopping as it is cheaper
Don’t rush off up the first lift in the morning without checking conditions - visit the Guide’s Office, speak to other people in the campsite and the owner, ring the hut guardians, check in the shops.
Organise your kit - consider what you need on each route
Book your huts - nowadays huts prefer you to either book online or phone/email - don’t just turn up expecting a bed and meal. Check what time you have to be there for dinner and if you have dietary requirements make these clear when booking.
Spend time working out the logistics of the lift systems and public transport - you don’t want to be stuck somewhere tired, thirsty and smelly!
Check the weather, ask others whether the forecast you have been using has been reliable here recently
Spend time acclimatizing. This can be achieved by taking a lift up and then spending time at a hut or on a ‘safe glacier’ practicing crevasse rescue.
Practice your skills again - in the campsite trees or on an easier rock climb or a safe patch of snow

Trying to follow a topo on the Dri Horli Traverse, Saas

Route selection

Check it is in condition by talking to people and the Guides Office
Think about timings - choose a shorter route for your first one and check that you are ‘on guidebook time’. Perhaps choose a route with a variety of terrain but a lower altitude so you can look at your timings and systems and see what needs improvement
Think about the descent as well - what condition is this in?
What are your options if you’re running behind guidebook time? Can you reverse the route easily?
What altitudes will you be gaining? Build up slowly
How busy will the route be? Are you prepared for hut faff in the morning?

“Be Flexible!
Avoid heuristic traps and the Ego!”