Leadership in the Mountains

In this article we outline the main qualifications of leading others in the mountains from a British point of view. The UIAA and IMFGA oversee Mountain Guide qualifications worldwide and different countries have their own training schemes for residents.

We have also asked a range of mountain professionals their advice for the next generation of female instructors and guides.

International Mountain Leader

The IML qualifies you to take groups of people walking in mountain ranges across the world, but does not cover climbing. There are some additional requirements to work in certain countries and these can be reviewed plus other useful information on the British Association of International Mountain Leaders site.

The overview of the award plus detailed notes on the syllabus can be viewed on the Mountain Training website here.

IML Fiona Chappell shares her experience of being an IML with Mountain Training in this article

We asked Susannah Walker, our lovely IML from the Ecrins Meet why she loves her job:

Having your IML is a great ticket to spend more time in the mountains, it gets you outside loads and introduces you to all kinds of people from all over the world.

I love learning about the environment and sharing my passion for nature with my clients. Working with school kids and getting them excited about adventure and protecting their wild spaces is especially rewarding.

Sometimes spending a week or two with a group in the hills can be challenging but I always learn new things from every trip. There is just something special about being outside together that allows people to relax and open up - and I really love that about my job.

I am also grateful to have learned the skills on my IML courses that made me more confident and independent in the mountains. Now if I’m out with friends and someone makes a dodgy decision I feel much more confident to speak up or to dig my heels in about turning back!

Getting my IML was quite simply one of the best things I ever decided to do!
Snowshoeing in Northern Spain

Snowshoeing in Northern Spain

British Mountain Guide (IFMGA)

To become a IFMGA BMG you have to complete a long programme of personal and leadership modules covering summer and winter climbing, mountaineering and skiing. A high level of personal skill is required as well as the ability to look after others in challenging environments.

The full pathway to become a British Mountain Guide can be reviewed on their website here

A recent trainee Guide examines the path to the entrance exams in this UKC article

One of our amazing Guides Tania Noakes gives some advice to those considering the Guiding scheme and the things she wished she knew when going through the process - ‘letter to me’

Guiding in the Ecrins

Guiding in the Ecrins

Mountain Training UK Awards

These qualifications are valid for leading others in the British Mountains and are often a stepping stone to more international awards such as the IML. Sometimes you can work as a ML in a foreign country if you are working for a British company, however always read the small print! Many companies such as Raleigh International employ British ML’s for their school expeditions and this can be a great way of increasing experience with groups and travelling into less developed parts of the world.

Setting off for a day scrambling on Tryfan

Setting off for a day scrambling on Tryfan

This article summarises the current (2020) range of UK awards - BMC MT Awards

The following articles from Mountain Training describe each award scheme and gives details of pre requisites and assessment criteria:

Mountain Leader

Winter Mountain Leader

Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor

Winter Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor