Scottish Winter - GET BURLY!!!

Scottish Winter Climbing has it’s own legendary status amongst climbers and mountaineers. When asked about coming over one winter, my Italian Guide friend looked at me blankly and said “But why would I want to?”.

So, why would you want to struggle into a remote snow covered cliff against blustery winds, stand for hours on a freezing belay until you can’t feel your toes whilst your partner scratches around swearing, and then if you’re lucky top out into 100mph winds and crawl across the summit plateau before descending to a warm soggy pub?!

Because, sometimes, magic can happen.

And that magic isn’t always finding perfect conditions (rare), topping out into sunshine (rarer) or gloating in the pub to your mates who weren’t brave (read stupid) enough to go out that day. The magic can be within yourself.

Of course there are those perfect days where the snow is firm, the ice is thick and chewy and there are bluebird skies. And that is oh so magical. Because in a typical winter season those days are fleeting and you have to grab them when you can.

But actually the immense personal satisfaction of surviving a day out there in the brutal conditions and being thankful for your body and mind for getting you through that is sometimes better than an easy day out.

I think the majority of my Scottish Winter days have been a struggle. There are so many factors to take into account - condition of the climb, the weather on the day, the weather over the past few days, avalanche conditions on the climb and the slopes approaching it plus being in the right place at the right time. If I get 2 good days out of a week up there I feel happy.

I think the biggest battle that I have is with the wind. I really struggle to look after myself in burly conditions. Your personal kit admin needs to be spot on plus it’s just plain tiring. Many a time I’ve crawled off the Cairngorm Plateau and I’ve also ended up sprawled at the feet of super hardcore WMCI Kath James whilst walking out of Corrie An’Sneachda.

It’s that feeling of digging deep and trying my hardest not to have a strop that gives me the biggest satisfaction after a big day out. Developing resilience in the hills of Scotland carries over into Alpine climbing. Having the self discipline to look after your kit, making sure you stay hydrated and fed, making sure you can look after yourself so you can look after your partner, knowing that you can dig deep and there’s a reserve within yourself somewhere - these are all great lessons in trusting yourself. And burly conditions make you learn these lessons.

So, do get out into those Scottish hills and develop your skills and personal resilience safely. Always ‘look for the logo’ and hire a WMCI instructor or BMG Guide and if you’re heading out on your own make sure you check the SAIS avalanche forecast.

Kath James (WMCI) will be giving an Alpine Stories talk on Scottish Winter Climbing on Tuesday 9th March 2021. Please do join us to convince you further - there will be lots of sunny photos we hear!!